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Shelby Pics 3
Here are a few more pics of the headlight buckets. After working them over I painted them in the color of their original molded look, flesh colored. I shot them in a urethane I matched and then shot them with DP50 and will shoot them in the correct Dark Argent sometime. These buckets were originally mounted to the fenders and the fenders were mounted to a jig and the complete nose was painted as an assembly in Lacquer. The lower valance was painted mounted to the fenders. When I paint everything I will try and duplicate all the over spray as closely as I can the way that they did it originally.
I finished the trunk area with the under coating and sealed it in DP50. Ford most of the time would seal all their cars in Gray sealer to neutralize the red oxide they used most of the time on the outside of the car. It makes for better coverage. I found gray in the trunk on top of the red oxide as well as the out side of the car. I am attaching a picture of part of the trunk showing the gray. I missed one spot, where the bracket is welded to the trunk floor for the taillight relay, I should have shot undercoating here and realized I missed it after looking over the pictures I took. This was done.
I attached a few shots of the passenger fender showing a few repairs made. The center NASA scoop had some cracks I had to fix, other wise the hood is really nice. There are two pictures of the deck lid. It shows where the wiring harness was taped to the lid and where the light is mounted, how they taped off the light before painting the deck lid. They attached the harness before painting and this is very typical for a Shelby. All the fiber glass parts were painted in Lacquer. These all had to be stripped, if this is not done I learned the hard way years ago when switching to the new urethane primers, that urethane will soften the lacquer and make a mess. So it is better to strip it all off. I do it the messy way and use Acetone soaked on rags and red Scoth pads. . It takes a while but worth it and it won't hurt the glass. It will leave the gray sealer.
I finished the trunk area with the under coating and sealed it in DP50. Ford most of the time would seal all their cars in Gray sealer to neutralize the red oxide they used most of the time on the outside of the car. It makes for better coverage. I found gray in the trunk on top of the red oxide as well as the out side of the car. I am attaching a picture of part of the trunk showing the gray. I missed one spot, where the bracket is welded to the trunk floor for the taillight relay, I should have shot undercoating here and realized I missed it after looking over the pictures I took. This was done.
I attached a few shots of the passenger fender showing a few repairs made. The center NASA scoop had some cracks I had to fix, other wise the hood is really nice. There are two pictures of the deck lid. It shows where the wiring harness was taped to the lid and where the light is mounted, how they taped off the light before painting the deck lid. They attached the harness before painting and this is very typical for a Shelby. All the fiber glass parts were painted in Lacquer. These all had to be stripped, if this is not done I learned the hard way years ago when switching to the new urethane primers, that urethane will soften the lacquer and make a mess. So it is better to strip it all off. I do it the messy way and use Acetone soaked on rags and red Scoth pads. . It takes a while but worth it and it won't hurt the glass. It will leave the gray sealer.